Project - Ruffled Cape Dress
Workshop 1 : Ruffled Cape
This ruffled cape can be cut using several methods. Here we are going to use the concentric circles method, where two circles of different sizes have the same center. There will be a total of two ruffled capes at the end of this workshop.
Required measurements:
- Length of dress neckline, plus 2 inches for seam allowance
- Length of cape, plus 1/4 of an inch for hem (suggestion: for the bigger cape measure from the top-front of the dress to the waistline, then take away 3-5 inches. The smaller cape should be about 2 inches less than the bigger cape)
For each piece:
Draw two circles on a piece of pattern paper. The inner circle has a circumference which is the length of the dress neckline plus the seam allowance. The radius of the outer circle is the radius of the inner circle plus the the length of the cape plus the 1/4 of an inch (for hem)
Cut out the inner circle and all around the outer circle.
Pin the pattern on the fabric and cut out the inner circle and around the outer circle.
Note: Repeat the same process up to this point for the second piece, which is 2 inches shorter in radius than the first piece.
Result of pieces cut in fabric. The smaller piece will be on top the bigger piece.
Workshop 2 : Front Top
The front top of the ruffled cape dress is where we work on setting the basic pattern. After this section, one should have a pretty good foundational picture.
Tools:
- Ruler, measurement tape, french curve, hip curve, pencil, pins, L-square ruler, and tracing wheel.
- Paper dimensions are: height = Front full length + 12” ; Width = ½ Bust circumference +12
Required Measurements:
- Chest circumference – Bust circumference – Waist circumference – Bust depth – Front full length – Breast distance – Style-line height – Back full length.
- Note: Refer to How To Take Your Own Body Measurement for more info
Notations:
- Lines will be denoted by two(2) letters. So AB means a line from A to B.
- Style-line : Top line of the garment, Measure 2.5” to 3.5” above the bustline for a small bust circumference and from 4” to 5” for a big bust circumference.
- Princess line: It defines the natural line starting from the front shoulder to the waist, through the bust.
- Dart Pick Up: excess of fabric that is taken away for a close fitted garment.
- Princess Dart: It is the dart that is built around a princess line.
- Apex: It is the bust highest point.
- Front Shoulder Dart: it is the dart that is built in the chest area from the shoulder to the apex.
Paper dimensions are: height = Front full length + 12” ; Width = ½ Bust circumference +12
Two inches (2”) away from the right hand side of your paper, draw a line AB parallel to that right side. Let A stop 3” away from the top edge and let B stop 1” away from the bottom edge of the paper. Line AB is called the Center Front Line.
We need to draw a line CD perpendicular to AB, where D will be touching line AB at 3” above B. The length of CD = 1/4 of the waist circumference + 1.1/4” ( dart pick up) + 3/8” (ease). CD is called the Waistline.
Mark F on line AD such that length of FD = Front full length minus bust depth. From F, draw in a perpendicular line EF to AD, such that length of EF = 1/4 Bust circumference + 1.3/4 (ease). EF is called the bustline.
Mark G on line CD, such that length of DG = 1/2 Breast distance. From G, raise upward a perpendicular line GH to line CD, such that length of GH = length of DA. Line GH is called the princess line.
Mark K on line FA, such that FK = the measurement of the Style-line above. From K draw in line JK, which is perpendicular to line FK, with JK = EF.
From E move up 1” to 3” (depending on how far you want the top side to be from the armpit), and mark that spot as E1
Mark I as the intersection of line EF and line GH. Also mark the I1 as the intersection of line JK and line GH. Then mark K1 on line FK, at 1/2” from K.
Draw the front style-line using the french curve or the hip curve joining the following: E1 and I1 , I1 and K1
Mark G1 on line CG at 1/2” of the Dart-Pick-Up ( 1.¼” ) from G. Also mark G2 on line GD at 1/2” from G on the Dart-Pick-Up. Draw lines by connecting G1 to I and G2 to I. The connection between IG, IG1, and IG2 is called the Princess dart. Note that edge I is the intersection of line EF and line HG; edge I is actually the apex or the breast’s highest point.
Move down 1/4” from C to a new edge called C1, and join C1 and G1 with the french curve.
Join E1 and C1 using a ruler. This is called the Side line.
Draw the front shoulder dart pick up on K1-E1 : place edge I2 between E1 and I1. The distance from I1 to I2 is approximately 1/4 of chest circumference minus the distance K1-E1. With your measurement tape walk in fromK1-E1 .Now draw a line joining II2. Place edge I’2 on II2, such that length II’2 = length II1. Join E1I’2 using the french curve.
Front Dart Truing: Option 1 – Single Piece
On the Princess dart line IG edge down I3 at the following location from I: between 1/2” and 1.1/2”
(Arrow locations on IG about 2” to 3.¼” down from I3) Draw one arrow protruding out from line IG1 and another arrow protruding out from line IG2 . The arrows length is approximately between 3/16” and 3/4 “on each side
Redraw new princess dart legs by using the french curve from I3 to the arrows , and by using a ruler from the arrows to G1 and G2 respectively.
You end up with 2 darts: one dart as I’2 I I1 and the another dart as G1I3G2
Front Dart Truing: Option 2 – Two separate pieces (Apply steps from option1)
Connect I and I3 with the french curve on each side of the dart legs, which is the connection between the shoulder Dart and the Princess Dart. Draw the new princess lines ( I1, I, I3, G2 and I’2, I, I3 G1 ) with your french curve to blend the lines.
Mark the notches on each side of the dart; 1” above and below edge I, which is the apex (breast’s highest point).
Workshop 3 : Back Top
Note: Grab your front Top project and we will be working on the left side of the paper to create the back.
Note: Grab your front Top project and we will be working on the left side of the paper to create the back.
Two inches (2”) away from the left hand side of your paper, draw a line parallel to that left side. Let P stop 4” away from the bottom edge of the paper and L, such that PL = back full length measurement. Line PL is called the Center Back Line. From P draw a perpendicular line to PL. Mark O on PL such that PO = DF(refers to the front Top). Mark M on PL, such that OM = FK (refers to the front top).
Mark in P1 at 1/2″away from P and R such that P1R = 1/4 waist circumference + 3/4″ (dart pick up) + 3/8″(ease). This is the back waistline.
Join P1 and M with a ruler.
Mark S halfway between P1 R. From S raise upward a perpendicular line ST to PR such that ST= PM + 1/2 distance ML. This is called the back princess line.
Mark S1 on line P1S at 1/2 of the Dart-Pick-Up ( 3/4″ ) from S. Also mark S2 on line SR at 1/2 of the Dart-Pick-Up from S.
Draw lines by connecting S1 to T and S2 to T. The connection between TS, TS1 and TS2 is called the Princess dart
From O raise a perpendicular line to PO and mark U on this new line such that length of OU = 1/4 Bust circumference + 3/4″ (ease). This is the bustline.
From U move up and apply the same distance E E1 (refers to the font dart) and mark that spot as U1
Move down 1/4” from R to a new edge called R1, and join R1 andS2 with the french curve
Join U1 R1 with a ruler. This is the back sideline
Close the dart S1TS2 toward the center back and finish the back with the top styleline. To close the dart, you need to crease the dart leg TS2 and join it to the other leg TS1 (optionally pin it)
Mark point V, such that P1V = 1/3 P1M (depending on how deep you want the back styleline to be you can mark V higher or lower to the actual position.) Using your french curve join( U1 V)
Open the dart S1TS2
Move down 1/4″ from P1 to a new edge called P2 and join P2 S1 with your french curve
Note:
- Fold your draft and put it aside we will be back to finish once we are done with the bottom of the dress
- Measure the top styleline front and back K1 I1 + I’2 E1 + U1 V minus the dart pick up. You need this measurement for the cape circles’ circumference (workshop1)
Workshop 4 : Front Bottom
Required Measurements:
- Waist circumference (waist circ) – Hip circumference (hip circ) – Length of skirt – Hip depth – Breast distance
- Cut a paper pattern dimension (1/2 hips circ. + 6″) x (length of the skirt + 6″)
Two inches (2”) away from the right hand side of your paper, draw a line AB parallel to that right side. Let A stop 3” away from the top edge and let B stop 3” away from the bottom edge of the paper. Line AB is called the Center Front Line
From A draw in a line perpendicular to AB, this is called the Waistline
From B draw in a line perpendicular to AB, this is called the Hemline
Mark C on AB, such that AC = Hip depth. From C draw in a line perpendicular to AB, this is called the Hipline. Mark D on the hipline, such that DC = 1/4 hip circ. + 3/8″ ease.
From D Draw a line parallel to AB. This line must touch the waistline at edge F and the hemline at edge E. It is the Sideline.
Mark F1 on FA (waistline), such that FF1 = FA – (1/4 waist circ. + 1.1/8″ dart pick up + 1/4″ ease)
Mark G on F1A, such that GA = breast distance. From either side of G mark G1 and G2, such that G1G = GG2 = 1/2 dart pick up ( 1.1/8”).
From G square down a line GH 3.1/2” away from the hipline .This line is the dart center. Using your hip curve, shape the dart legs G1H and G2H.
From F1 move up 3/8″ then mark that spot as F2. Using your hip curve, join F2 and G1.
From D on the hipline measure up on sideline 1.5”, then mark D1. With your hip curve or french curve join F2 and D1.
Mark E1 on the hemline EB 1.5” away from E. Join D and E1 with a ruler. The new sideline includes F2 D1 D E1.
Workshop 5 : Back Bottom
Required Measurements: No measurements required
Extend CD to the left side of the paper and mark I, such that length DI = CD = 1/4 hip + 3/8″ ease.
From I raise a line JK parallel to FE.
Extend AF and BE, such that they touch JK respectively at edge J and edge K.
Mark L on JF, such that JL = PP1 ( refers to the top back) = 1/2”.
Mark M on LF, such that LM = P1 S1 ( refers to the back of the top back).
Mark N on MF, such that MN = 3/4″ (back dart pick up).
Mark O midway between M and N. From O square down a line OP that ends 1” above the hipline, this is the center dart line. Use the hip curve to draw the dart legs MP and NP.
Join L and I with a ruler.
Move down 1/4″ from L to a new edge called L1 and join L1M with your hip curve.
Mark Q on NF, such that NQ = S2R (refers to the back top).
From Q move up 3/8″, and mark that spot as Q1. Using your hip curve join Q1 and N.
Use your hip curve and shape the side hip by joining Q1D1.
Mark E2 on the hemline EK 1.5” away from E. Join D and E2 with a ruler. The new sideline includes Q1D1DE2.